Cornwall 27-30 September 2001
by Nicola Orchard
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GPOG Trip Report Cornwall 27-30 September 2001 by Nicola Orchard |
It's a Thursday night in late September, 10pm at a service station somewhere in Somerset and the burger bar is closed. It must be the annual GPOG trip to Cornwall.
Pleas to stop a few miles back at the Michaelwood Service station to dazzle the resident Ring-billed Gull were to no avail. Comments that if Black Terns come to feed on Cornish pasties then surely a Ring-billed Gull would be attracted by McDonalds, probably it's staple diet in USA, were ignored. The rest of the journey down to Cornwall was passed by laying bets on how many species of birds would be seen and discussing prospects of rare birds. Admittedly the author of this article may have ascended into the realms of fantasy when wishing for Parula Warbler, American Robin and Upland Sandpiper, especially after a week of easterly winds, but hey a girl can dream can't she?? Roger Teasdale was keen to get his 300th "tick" - with only 3 more to go surely he would make it?
We arrived at the chalets at Hayle Towans at about 1am. The campsite is situated in amongst the dune system and worries that the minibus may not make it up the steep hill unfounded so no one had to get out and walk. The accommodation is not the Hilton but it is cheap, dry and windproof, which is all a group of birders, intent on spending every daylight hour in pursuit of birds, could ask for. One of the group on his first visit to the site was heard to respond, "It's ok… but I wouldn't bring my mother here." A few delicate moments ensued when it was realised that there were insufficient sheets for everyone's bed - various suggestions as to who should share whose bed were mooted and resoundly quashed by the people involved. A compromise was reached and every one retired to bed and dreams of American waders.
Friday dawned bright and clear, soon the smell of bacon was wafting from all chalets, except the one that had the telltale plume of smoke from burnt toast. Tentative attempts were made at sea watching from the breakfast table. Gannets were passing off shore and seen by everyone, those people who tried to identify anything smaller than a Gannet were gently reminded of confusion species: wasps passing at the end of the telescope can easily be mistaken for auks flying past ˝ mile away.
The first stop of the day was to Marazion beach to look for a juvenile Baird's Sandpiper that had taken the scenic route on its migration from … to … and had a stopover in Cornwall. We arrived and immediately noticed two people stood on the beach both intently looking through telescopes - a good sign. Most people took the stairs onto the beach, the more adventurous jumped - and came very close to giving the resident beach tramp an early morning alarm call. The Baird's Sandpiper was eventually found roosting with some Ringed Plover and a Dunlin. The birds were quite unconcerned by our presence and we were able to obtain good views of this small American wader. During much of the time were watched the bird, it stood next to the Dunlin, allowing a detailed feather by feather comparison. Eventually everyone had their fill and we left the birds to continue their sleep.
Our next stop was across the road at Marazion Marsh RSPB reserve and one of the main reasons to go to Marazion Marsh during August and September is the possibility of seeing Aquatic Warbler. This "tiger-striped" cousin of the Sedge Warbler is a rare bird in Britain and is declining across much of it's range in eastern Europe but these birds are regularly recorded in the reedbeds at Marazion. We walked around the reserve but the windy conditions were conspiring to keep any self-respecting Aquatic Warbler safely ensconced in the reeds. However, a deafening Cetti's Warbler, Whinchat, 3+ Little Egrets and two Ravens seen flying along Marazion beach were more than enough consolation.
Determined to find our own birds we set off for the valleys of the Penwith peninsula, via the local supermarket to stock up on toilet paper which had been forgotten, filled with good intentions.
Our first stop was Nanquidno valley where every bush was scrutinised, and every flap of a wing checked. The birds were obviously lying on a beach somewhere soaking up the last of the summer sun there certainly weren't many in Nanquidno, a Pied Flycatcher being the highlight of the walk. In light of the apparent absence of small birds in the area, the plans to check the nearby valley were postponed. Good intentions of finding our own birds were put aside as we retraced out tracks and headed east to Helston in search of Black Duck and Ring-billed Gulls.
A Ring-billed Gull had been seen frequenting the boating lake at Helston along with its commoner cousins. Armed with the essential Ring- billed Gull identification tool, bread rolls, we set off in search of it and it was not too long before our attention was drawn to a "common" gull which was being incredibly tame and allowing people to walk within a few feet of it. Those of you who have seen Ring-billed Gulls may recognise this trait. Closer investigation of this bird proved that it was the 2nd winter Ring-billed Gull we were looking for. Even with out the lure of the bread, the bird would allow us within feet of it as it stood demurely on the edge of the lake. However offer it pieces of bread and it's true character was revealed! Unable to decide whether to eat the bread, call or defend it's territory from other gulls it decided to do all three, at the same time! We left the bird attacking the resident gulls and hanging off the back of the neck of a very bemused Herring Gull.
Nearby in a quiet arm of Looe Pool, a Black Duck had taken up residence. By sheer fortune, the path we followed took us opposite the hide so that the sun was behind us. The Black Duck was quickly found and appreciated for its rarity more than it's impact. The Black Duck was soon forgotten as we realised that we had stumbled on a honey pot of birds, new species were added to the trip list almost continuously. Highlights including 3 Black-necked Grebes feeding in the main channel, bathing Water Rail, Pintail, Curlew Sandpiper, Little Stint and Ruddy Duck. At this point I should say that the Chairman of the Peterborough Bird Club should have a health warning placed on him. Walking up to people with a small brown bird in his hand and saying "I've just found a dusky warbler" is not good for the heart. Reality soon returned and for a short while it was not just the sky that turned blue as we realised it was in fact a slightly unhappy looking Wren that he had found sheltering by the side of the path.
By popular demand, most people needed Aquatic Warbler for their life list; a return visit was paid to Marazion Marsh. Eventually after what seemed a very long time staring into patches of rushes and reeds willing every movement into a bird, suddenly Dan Williams gives a shout "There's a warbler just flown in there… and it doesn't look like a Sedge!!!" All attention was focussed on an area of vegetation near the path where a small bird was seen making short flights over the tops of reeds. Those people with better views confirmed that it was indeed an Aquatic Warbler, which left those of us who had only seen a small brown bird feeling very frustrated. However, for once the bird took pity on us and settled in one patch of vegetation and proceeded to put on a show worthy of an Oscar with everybody obtaining scope-filling views of this stripy gem. The whoops and jumps of triumph from the group will surely become the new dance craze in the dance halls of Penzance!!
After this, everyone was on a real high and an early sojourn to the pub to celebrate was on the cards. However, breaking news of a Pectoral Sandpiper at Nanjizal proved too strong a lure and thoughts of the pub were temporarily forgotten. I will draw a veil over what happened at Nanjizal except to say that the directions to the bird were a little dubious and many of us were reminded of why we have a love/hate relationship with Cornwall - it's all up-hill, even the downs!
Foot-sore and slightly less exuberant we made it back to Hayle for the traditional evenings entertainment of fish and chips and a pint in the "Bucket of Blood" A small detour was added to the journey to the pub to enable a shopping trip to purchase toilet paper… Following the rationing the previous night a stop was made in Penzance earlier in the day to obtain supplies, unfortunately the two shoppers, the author of this report and the Club Chairman, were both of the belief that the other had purchased the necessary supplies. The question on return to the chalets of "Where's the toilet roll" was met with "She's got it." "No, he's got it…" Obviously these two members will not be in charge of provisions on future trips!!
Saturday again dawned fine and again we set off in search of our own birds. Our first stop was to the RSPB Reserve at the Hayle Estuary. Now that the car park adjacent to the pub was out of bounds, we parked in the reserve car park and checked out the scrape before walking the short distance to view the estuary from the road verge. The scrape was birdless, not an inspiring start. Thankfully the estuary proved more productive with Bar-tailed Godwit and Wigeon being added to the list.
The plan for the day was to search the valleys of the Penwith peninsula again. The first port of call was Kenidijack valley. Almost immediately it became clear that there were more birds present in the area than yesterday. Robins seemed to be in every bush pretending to be everything except a Robin; Spotted and Pied Flycatchers and Chiffchaffs added to the feeling that today we'd find something interesting.
Richard Allinson, the Cambridgeshire Bird Recorder, had walked a little way ahead and was exploring a sidetrack. As the rest of the group rounded the corner they found Richard excitedly waving and pointing at a patch of bare earth and stone on the opposite side of the valley. 7 breathless birders caught up with Richard and trained their telescopes on a seemingly birdless area of lichen, stone and earth - birdless until some of the lichen and earth moved and became a Wryneck! Seeing the bird against an area of earth and lichen was a reminder of just how well camouflaged these birds are, a fact that is often forgotten when they are seen feeding on the sand dunes of the east coast.
After a traditional lunch of Cornish pasties it was off to St Levan where a Yellow-browed Warbler had been seen a couple of days previously. Needlessly to say it was nowhere to be seen, thoughts of looking for an avian needle in the sycamore haystack convinced us that we should try our luck at Porthgwarra where another Wryneck had been seen.
At Porthgwarra the first divisions within in the group were noted with the keen members of the group excitedly checking every bush for migrants and the reported Wryneck; those who were quite happy to see one Wryneck in a day made the most of the sun, ice-creams and shortbread. The wryneck-hunting group, having eventually found the bird, returned to find the sunbathers indulging in a spot of sea watching near the car park. Claims of close views of Mediterranean Shearwater were mocked until one of the sceptics picked up another two birds flying west, very close to the shore. At that distance and in sunny conditions, it was possible to see the brownish colouration that is the main distinguishing feature between this and its close relative the Manx Shearwater. An impromptu group sea watch produced a further 2 Mediterranean Shearwaters, Gannet, Guillemot, Razorbill and Puffin.
Never say that we are quitters, having gone cross-eyed from looking at the sea for too long we decided that another attempt on the Pectoral Sandpiper at Nanjizal was in order. This time a slightly flatter route was chosen to the relief of most. However, the Pectoral Sandpiper was destined to become our bogey bird of the trip, this time we were scuppered by the farmer who was adamant that the footpath marked on the OS map had "not been there since 1948!" The stop at Nanjizal was however rewarded by two late Turtle Doves sat on telegraph wires just outside the village.
The return back to Hayle was rounded off by the sighting of an adult plumaged Mediterranean Gull roosting with other gulls in the estuary. Saturday finished in much the same way as Friday night with lashings of curry and a return visit to the Bucket of Blood.
The weather changed on Sunday, heavy rain and strong winds which made us feel much more at home seawatching at Porthgwarra. The sensible ones in the group were adamant that they could see just as much perched in the caves by the car park without struggling against the wind and the rain to the traditional seawatching spot at the coastguard look out. An hour later some very damp and soggy birdwatchers made it back to the van; expecting to be gloats of "Did you see that albatross then?" notes were compared and it was found that with the exception of one bird, we'd all seen the same species. The exception being the inspired sighting of a Kingfisher darting along the beach that Gordon Hamlett managed to see.
By now it was time to head for home, but which way to go? Plans to call into Davidstow airfield on the off chance of a Buff-breasted Sandpiper were quickly shelved when reports of a lingering Sabine's Gull at Torquay were received. This would be a new species for several people in the bus so maps were hastily consulted and a revised route planned.
After driving around Torquay for a while trying to find the sewage outfall pipe, funnily enough it wasn't sign posted, we eventually struck lucky and set of towards the shoreline. Those in the group blessed with the co-ordination and agility of a mountain goat found the journey down the steep and slippery path quite easy; for those of us not quite so agile it was a different matter. Eventually the Sabine's Gull, a juvenile, was located resting on the sea a little way offshore; a lucky few were also treated to very distant views of an adult bird flying past. Much celebration as it appeared that Roger had at last reached the hallowed total of 300 species on his life list.
Our last birdwatching stop was at Exminster on the hunt for the Cirl Buntings that reside in the area. Driving down the small lanes to get to the site we started to get the impression that given the grass growing through the tarmac of the road, no one had been down the lanes since we visited last year. We arrived at the site in the pouring rain and hopes of success were not high. But then we experienced a feeling of deja vu from the previous year; there sat in the same bush, in the same weather, were the Cirl Buntings. The rain forgotten, we watched at least 7 birds, including 2 superbly plumaged males, feeding in a sheltered ditch.
On that high note we set out on the long journey back to Peterborough; half hearted attempts were made to spot Lapwings in the fields at the side of the motorway but fatigue had set in and it was a tired but happy group of birdwatchers that arrived back in Peterborough in the late evening.
Over the 3 days, a total of 118 species were seen, Martin won the sweepstake. Roger never made it to 300 in the end, closer examination of the list revealed the presence of Muscovy Duck and Bar-headed Goose…
Many thanks should go to Martin Coates and Trevor Williams for organising the trip, driving approximately 1000 miles in 3 days and manoeuvring a 15 seater mini-bus around the lanes of Cornwall. If racing around western Cornwall in late September in search of unusual birds interests you then this could be the trip for you!
